This time of year (late spring) We often get the message "My Photinia fraseri Red Robin The bushes looked amazing when I first bought them. They were lush with shining darker green leaves as well as young leaves that were bright red. A couple of months later, younger leaves are still bright red, however the older leaves are more pale yellow-green with dark spots and the whole bushes appear thin and sluggish. What's the problem is the best way to help them appear healthier?" Knowing the plant and a little bit of attention and love each year will ensure they look stunning!
Photinia Red Robin is a tree that is gaining popularity in recent times, and is suitable for many different scenarios, including trimming as a standard to create a tree-like form for evergreen screening over an 8-foot wall or fence. It's a vigorous and large-leafed evergreen. It is cultivated for the bright red hue of the new leaves, which eventually mature into a dark, glossy green. Or, at least, should! There are many reasons that could play a role in this. Photinias aren't very well in shade or close proximity to established, large trees. In the shade they can become tangled and sloping. as with most evergreens, aren't tolerant of being soaked for long periods, places that are dry for a long time can cause stress to the plants, leading to them dropping more older leaves than they would normally. Photinias can be found in a variety in soils, which includes extremely alkaline environments when there is enough organic matter. They are often described as hungry feeders. Their normal growth pattern is very strong and upright, with new leaves on the tips of their long, upright stems and dropping older leaves when they pass and the result is, when left to their individuality, can be quite slender and angular that has "bare leg"! But with a amount of effort each year and it doesn't have to be a lot they can appear totally different, lush, shiny and vibrant.
First of all, a trim every year is necessary to stimulate side branching and maintain the density, as you would with hedges. If the area isn't warm, too windy, or too moist, Photinias can be used to create an attractive hedge that is very effective. I recommend giving an annual cut in June to keep the density. It can break your heart to take off most of the fresh red leaves, however a new flush will appear within a few weeks and will last into autumn. Don't cut too early during the autumn or summer because the fresh leaves will be soft once the frosts arrive and could be burned by frost. The restorative pruning of an overgrown plant can be accomplished by cutting hard just above a bud , or node and cutting into the leggy stems in order to encourage a plant to grow more bushy It is most effective when it is done in May or April depending on the temperature in the initial flush of spring growth that is vigorous. As I've mentioned that they are hungry feeders. Therefore, feeding them regularly in April can be very beneficial. A general fertiliser like Fish, Blood & Bonemeal or a high-quality Rose fertiliser, can make an important difference to the appearance and appearance of the leaves. If needed, repeat this during the middle of summer. Another reason to feed Photinias is the fact that their vigorous nature implies that they require a significant amount of Magnesium and a deficiency of which will cause this plant to drop more older leaves. Magnesium is a highly mobile nutrient and is easily absorbed from easily draining soils over long periods of rain. In addition, dry conditions can also impact the plants ability to absorb the mineral. A teaspoonful of Epsom salts that are dissolved in the water of a gallon and applied shortly after applying other fertilisers will prevent the development of a deficiency, which could cause the plant to take Magnesium from the older leaves and placing it in the new leaves. It is interesting to note that Magnesium deficiencies in Photinias frequently cause small burgundy-coloured spots on older leaves along with general yellowing of older leaves. The spots are easily confused with the fungal leaves spot. It doesn't necessarily mean that Photinias aren't infected by these diseases. Of course, they could be like most species in some way. However, it's more likely to be stressed plants that are most affected. It is possible to control fungal leaf spot diseases up to some extent with general fungicides like the ones used to spray roses however, a healthy and properly fed Photinia will generally dismiss leaf spot and flourish regardless.
Dryness for prolonged periods of time, or getting too cold during winter, are additional stressors that could cause Photinias shed more leaves, and thus require an immediate restorative pruning therefore, a few times of watering during prolonged dry periods (I employ the washing-up liquid!) can help to solve that issue, but there's really no thing to do in the event of the cold winter. This is due to the larger percentage of older leaves falling in the spring following an extremely cold winter in the North part of America, than our Southern neighbors would encounter, Photinia is not very suitable for "pleaching" (fanning out over a flat surface over a tall stem of clear to create a two-dimensional screen) within the North because it's difficult to maintain enough density for the desired effect.
This is a query that I receive a lot which is why I've shared plenty of details in this article, but to summarize, if you are looking to grow Photinias to retain their size and look at their best, trim them each year and feed them at least twice a year with a general fertilizer and some Magnesium. Do not let them become dry for long (but do not overwater them) and do not place them in shade.
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